Best Brush for Long-Haired Dogs (Matting & Shedding)
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For a long-haired dog, there isn't one best brush — there's a best pair. An undercoat rake pulls out the dense fur and opens mats near the skin; a slicker brush lifts loose hair from the outer coat and finishes the surface. Use them together, several times a week, and you stay ahead of the tangles that turn into painful mats. Below is how to choose each and use them without hurting your dog.
Why Long Coats Mat in the First Place
Long and dense coats trap shed hair instead of dropping it, and that trapped fur tangles — most often behind the ears and under the legs, as the American Kennel Club notes. Left alone, a tangle tightens into a mat against the skin, which is uncomfortable and can hide irritation underneath. The fix isn't a fancier brush; it's frequency. AKC recommends brushing long or dense coats at least once a week, and several times a week — or daily — is better for preventing mats.
The Two Tools That Do the Work
AKC's tool guidance for long coats points to a few types: undercoat rakes to reach loose fur down in the undercoat, slicker brushes to remove mats and dead hair, and wide-toothed combs for tangles. In practice, a rake plus a slicker covers the routine.
| Undercoat Rake | Slicker Brush | |
|---|---|---|
| Best for | Dense underlayer and mats near the skin | Outer coat, loose hair, finishing the surface |
| Key feature | 9-teeth side + 17-teeth side (two working faces) | 220 rounded-tip stainless-steel pins |
| Size / detail | Extra-wide head, about 2.8 in (7 cm) | Quick-release button retracts the pin plate to lift out trapped fur |
| Handle | Non-slip TPR handle, usable even wet (e.g. during a bath) | Comfortable non-slip grip handle |
| Use it | First — 9-teeth to open knots, then 17-teeth to clear loosened fur | Second — glides through thick, thin, curly, and double coats without scratching |
Step 1: The undercoat rake (for the dense underlayer and mats)
Start deep. Our Double-Sided Undercoat Rake has two working faces: a 9-teeth side that cuts through stubborn mats and tangles, and a 17-teeth side that thins and pulls loose undercoat. The extra-wide head — about 2.8 in (7 cm) — covers more coat per pass, which matters on a big long-haired dog. Start with the 9-teeth side to open knots, then switch to the 17-teeth side to clear the loosened fur. The non-slip TPR handle keeps a grip even with wet hands, so you can use it during a bath.
Step 2: The slicker brush (for the outer coat and finish)
Once the underlayer is clear, finish the surface. Our Self-Cleaning Slicker Brush has 220 rounded-tip stainless-steel pins that glide through the coat to catch loose hair, tangles, dander, and debris — the rounded tips are what let it work without scratching. When the pins fill, one click of the button retracts the pin plate and the trapped fur lifts off in one piece, so you're not picking it out by hand. It handles thick, thin, curly, and double coats.
Brush Without Hurting Your Dog
Technique matters as much as the tool. AKC's advice — echoed by every groomer — is to brush from the ends of the coat and work slowly toward the skin, and to keep a light touch, because pressing hard (especially with a slicker) causes discomfort. A few rules that keep sessions calm:
- Work in the direction of hair growth, not against it.
- Ease into a mat from the tip, not the root. If a mat is tight against the skin, don't saw at it — a wide-toothed comb or a groomer's help is safer than forcing it.
- On loose-skinned spots, gently pull the skin taut so the teeth glide instead of catching.
- Keep pressure light. You're lifting fur, not scrubbing.
A Simple Weekly Routine
Two or three times a week: rake first (9-teeth to open, 17-teeth to thin), then slicker to finish and smooth. Bump that up during spring and fall shedding, when a long coat drops far more. Regular brushing doesn't just prevent mats — it's also when you'll catch burrs, cuts, or skin problems early, which is half the point of grooming at home.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How often should I brush a long-haired dog?
A: At least once a week, per AKC — and several times a week or daily is better for preventing mats in long or dense coats. Increase frequency during seasonal shedding.
Q: What's the difference between an undercoat rake and a slicker brush?
A: A rake reaches the dense undercoat and opens mats near the skin; a slicker lifts loose hair and tangles from the outer coat and finishes the surface. Long coats benefit from both — rake first, slicker second.
Q: How do I brush out a mat without hurting my dog?
A: Work from the end of the mat toward the skin with gentle pressure, holding the fur above the mat so you don't pull the skin. For a tight mat against the skin, use a wide-toothed comb or see a groomer rather than forcing it out.
Q: Can I use these brushes on a cat too?
A: The slicker brush works on cats as well as dogs (and small pets like rabbits). The undercoat rake is built for medium-to-large dogs and cats with long, wiry, thick, or double coats — go gently on a smaller animal.
Sources
- American Kennel Club — Dog Brushes: How to Choose the Right Dog Brush for Your Pet (https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/types-dog-brushes-shedding/)
- American Kennel Club — How to Groom a Dog at Home (https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/how-to-groom-a-dog/)
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